Care
Diet and Nutrition
NOTE: It is always preferable to buy organic produce if possible. If collecting wild foods such as dandelion greens make sure, they are from a pesticide-free area. All fresh foods regardless of the source should be washed or scrubbed (in the case of hard vegetables) before serving them to your rabbit.
LEAFY GREENS
These foods should make up about 75% of the fresh portion of your rabbit’s diet (about 1 packed cup per 2 lbs of body weight per day).
Leafy Greens I (need to be rotated due to oxalic acid content and only 1 out of three varieties of greens a day should be from this list)
Parsley, Spinach, Mustard greens, Beet greens, Swiss chard, Radish tops, and Sprouts (from 1 to 6 days after sprouting, sprouts have higher levels of alkaloids).
Leafy Greens II (low in oxalic acid)
Arugula, Carrot tops, Cucumber leaves, Endive, Ecarole, Frisee Lettuce, Kale (all types), Mache, Red or green lettuce, Romaine lettuce, Spring greens, Turnip greens, Dandelion greens, Mint (any variety), Basil (any variety), Watercress, Wheatgrass, Chicory, Raspberry leaves, Cilantro, Radicchio, Bok Choy, Fennel (the leafy tops as well as the base), Borage leaves, Dill leaves, and Yu choy.
Diet and Nutrition continued
NON-LEAFY VEGETABLES
These should be no more than about 15 % of the diet (About 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day).
Carrots, Broccoli (leaves and stems), Edible flowers (roses, nasturtiums, pansies, hibiscus), Celery, Bell peppers (any color), Chinese pea pods (the flat kind without large peas), Brussel sprouts, Cabbage (any type), Broccolini, Summer squash, and Zucchini squash.
These should be no more than 10% of the diet (about 1 teaspoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day). NOTE: unless otherwise stated it is more nutritious to leave the skin on the fruit (particularly if organic), just wash thoroughly. IF you are in doubt about the source of the fruit and you are concerned about chemicals in the skin, then remove it.
FRUITS
Apple (any variety, without stem and seeds), Cherries (any variety, without the pits), Pear, Peach, Plum (without the pits), Kiwi, Papaya, Mango, Berries (any type), Berries (uncooked), Pineapple (remove skin), Banana (remove peel; no more than about 2 1/8 inch slices a day for a 5 lb rabbit…they LOVE this!), Melons (any – can include peel and seeds), Star Fruit, Apricot, Currants, and Nectarine.
Hay
What kind of hay can my rabbit eat? How much? What’s this about “cuts”? There are a lot of different types of hay that rabbits can eat. Here are some of the most common kinds and the differences among them:
ALFALFA: high in protein and calcium, making it perfect for growing young buns, but NOT for adults – too hard on the kidneys. Also the most aromatic (some would say “stinkiest”) and the most likely to cause allergic reactions for humans.
TIMOTHY HAY: just about nutritionally perfect for adult buns, it has a good balance of protein, fat and other nutrients. However, many people who think they’re allergic to their pets, are actually allergic to Timothy hay.
ORCHARD GRASS: almost as complete as Timothy, and bunnies love to play in it as well as eat it. It’s the least allergenic of the widely available hays. should comprise about 80% of the overall diet) – e.g. Timothy, Oat, Wheat, Pasture, Paddock, Meadow, Rye, Orchard, Alfalfa Once rabbits reach seven months of age, gradually switch them over to Timothy, orchard grass, and/or oat hay.
For people with allergies, look for the second cutting of hay. When harvesting hay, the first cutting is a coarser hay that includes a lot of stems and seed heads (and inevitably, a lot of pollen). The second cutting consists of a softer hay that includes more leaves and fewer stems and seed heads, thereby reducing people’s allergic reactions significantly.
Pellets
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Health Care
It’s important to do a daily health check for your bunny. If any of these symptoms are present, call your rabbit-savvy vet pronto!
- IS BUNNY EATING? If not, try a favorite treat. Still not eating? Something’s wrong! Call the vet.
- IS BUNNY BREATHING NORMALLY? Is there any sneezing? Wheezing? Coughing? Breathing faster than usual or working hard to breathe? Something’s wrong! Call the vet.
- IS BUNNY LOOKING GOOD (EYES, NOSE AND MOUTH)? Eyes or nose leaking? Any drooling? Third eyelid showing? Teeth okay and not overgrown? Feel the jaw and under the chin. Any lumps or sensitive places? Something’s wrong! Call the vet.
- IS BUNNY LOOKING GOOD (FUR AND SKIN)? Any thin spots or bald patches? Flaky skin? White spots? Or black ones? Scabs? Swollen or hot places? Anywhere bunny doesn’t want to be touched? Is the tail wet? Dirty rump? Something’s wrong! Call the vet.
- IS BUNNY LOOKING GOOD (FEET AND NAILS)? Are the feet clean? Check the hocks. Any missing fur? Red places? Blood? Check the nails. Are any torn? Or twisted? Any bleeding? Something’s wrong! Call the vet.
- IS BUNNY PEEING AND POOPING? Is the poop normal? Or is it tiny? Hard? Watery? Linked together like a “string of pearls”? Bunny pee can be lots of different colors, all normal, depending on diet, but two are not: is the pee chalky? Contain blood spots? Something’s wrong! Call the vet. Remember, rabbits are prey animals and will naturally hide it when they don’t feel well. A daily health check is essential to catch any potential problems before they become life threatening…and can be a great way to reinforce the bond with your bunny!
Dental Care
Rabbits have a total of 28 teeth: 4 incisors (those are the big choppers up front; what you picture when you think of ‘bunny teeth’). There are 2 of those on the top and 2 on the bottom. These are the teeth they use to chunk off mouthfuls of food…or to bite through phone cables! Right behind the top incisor teeth are 2 small peg-like teeth called auxiliary incisors or (duh) ‘peg teeth’. They help with severing things, especially if it’s something tough that needs more than just a quick snip. Peg teeth are one of the characteristics that differentiate our beloved lagomorphs from rodents! They also have 6 upper and 4 lower premolars, then 6 molars up top and 6 more molars down below. Collectively, these 22 teeth further back in their cheeks are known as (more duh) ‘cheek teeth’. Just as with our own premolars and molars, they’re used to grind food, readying it to be swallowed and digested. Unlike us, however, rabbits have teeth that never stop growing, so it’s not just that they like to bite and chew – though they do – but it’s actually a necessity for them. They MUST continually wear down their teeth or, trust us, there will be much dental badness and huge vet bills! You can help your bunny care for their teeth are by feeding the roughest cut hay they’re willing to eat (1st cut takes the most biting and cutting work, 3rd cut is the softest and often suggested for old rabbits or ones who already have tooth trouble of one kind or another; 2nd cut is in between) and providing lots of tempting chew toys. Properly maintained, all those teeth are SHARP! Every time we get a glimpse of them, we can’t help thinking, “Boy it’s a really good thing they like us!”
Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV)
WHAT IS RHDV? WHAT’S RHDV2?
Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV) is an extremely contagious and fatal viral disease affecting all lagomorph species, including both wild rabbits and domestics. RHDV2 is the currently active variation and has largely replaced the original from which it mutated. It has killed in countries worldwide and been reported on every continent except Antarctica.
The first symptom is often death, with the rabbit having bled from all orifices; hence its nickname of “rabbit Ebola”. All unexplained sudden deaths need to be regarded as suspicious and reported to your veterinarian as a possible case of RHDV2!
Although there’s about a 90% fatality rate, asymptomatic survivors can transmit it to other rabbits for as long as two months. Even without a host animal, RHDV2 can survive for almost four months on hard surfaces such as countertops and the soles of shoes, and soft surfaces such as clothing and furniture. Like a horror movie monster, it can’t be killed by even repeated freezing and thawing, and survives temperatures of well over 120° Fahrenheit. There is no treatment, no cure, and currently no vaccine available in the United States.
So far, we’ve escaped but it’s just a matter of time before RHDV2 moves into the region we serve. We monitor the situation daily and will keep you informed of developments and what you can do to help protect your rabbits.
Housing
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Litterbox Training
To provide rescue and rehoming for abandoned or feral domestic rabbits in Whatcom County and neighboring areas, and to educate the public so there’s less eventual need for our services.i cras fermentum odio. Odio pellentesque diam volutpat commodo. Vitae tempus quam pellentesque nec nam. Sodales ut eu sem integer vitae justo eget magna fermentum. At erat pellentesque adipiscing commodo elit. Fusce ut placerat orci nulla pellentesque dignissim enim sit. Est velit egestas dui id ornare arcu odio ut sem. Nullam eget felis eget nunc lobortis mattis aliquam faucibus purus. Pharetra et ultrices neque ornare aenean euismod elementum nisi quis. Phasellus egestas tellus rutrum tellus pellentesque. Urna porttitor rhoncus dolor purus non enim praesent. Mi proin sed libero enim sed faucibus turpis. Enim sed faucibus turpis in eu mi.
Wild Or Domestic
Help! Is this baby I found wild or domestic? It happens a lot: people ‘rescue’ a seemingly abandoned baby rabbit. But is it? Wild rabbits (cottontails) leave their nests alone most of the time, often visiting just twice a day, so don’t assume a baby without a visible mother needs help…unless it’s CLEARLY domestic. Here’s how to tell them apart: * Wild rabbits are always brown with an agouti pattern (black, white and muted yellow mixed together, but definitely overall a camouflage beige-gray-brown). * Domestic rabbits can be this color, but are likely to be black, white, orange, deep chocolate brown, cinnamon, orange, gray, spotted, blotched or a combination of colors. * Wild rabbits always have erect, slightly pointy ears. * Domestic rabbits can have ears like this, but they’re more likely to have somewhat larger ears that end in more of a hairpin curve than a point. They can also have floppy ears (lop). * Wild rabbits have narrow, pointed heads. * Domestic rabbits generally have rounder heads. They might have a wedge-shaped head, but it will still be visibly wider and have more padding in the cheek area. * Wild rabbits have teeny tails that come to a sharp point, with a distinctive flash of white underneath (the ‘cotton’ tail). * Domestic rabbits have tails that are broader, fluffier and like a beaver’s, but furry. * Wild rabbits are muscular, even as babies, and are lean (not skinny, but built along the lines of an Olympic sprinter). * Domestic rabbits, even breeds that will be trim as adults, are soft round squish balls as babies. * Wild rabbits are smaller than domestic ones. The two babies here are the same age, and you can clearly see the size and other differences between them. If you DO find a wild baby rabbit the right thing to do is usually…nothing. If you’re certain it needs help, handle it as little as possible, keep it it a dark, quiet place and call the nearest Wildlife Rehabilitation Center. And if you find a domestic baby rabbit call a rabbit rescue or animal shelter so it can get the help it needs!